How do I change my bulb?

  • ALL POWER TO THE LIGHT MUST BE OFF.  This includes the circuit breaker and the light switch. Once the power is verified to be off, unscrew the light fixture from the niche. There should be a single mounting screw in the 12 o’clock position; loosen the screw and lift the light onto the pool deck. (When the light was first installed, the installer should have left excess cord).  Depending on the age of the light, there may be a clamp or a back securing ring with nuts holding the light onto the lens. Expose the bulb, unscrew and install the new bulb.
  • NOTE:
    When replacing a bulb, you should replace the lens gasket, as a precaution. If you replace the bulb and the light continues not to work, your gasket might be bad. Lubricate the new lens gasket,
    resecure the lens and faceplate and secure into the niche.
    Hayward recommends you consult a licensed electrician for any electrical work.

What are LEDs?

  • LEDs are light emitting diodes. They are housed on a circuit board. The circuit board controls the color and intensity of each diode. Using red, green and blue different colors are created depending on the numbers of each color and their intensity.

How long does the light last?

  • The life expectancy for a Colorlogic light is 50,000 hours. The light will perform for over 10,000 hours without any noticeable loss of brightness.

How do I synchronize multiple lights?

  • When the lights are shutoff and powered on between 10-15 seconds, each light will go to the first color show in its’ program.

How bright are the Colorlogic lights?

  • LED lighting is not measured in brightness. The purpose of colored light is to achieve different effects or moods in the pool/water environment. The accepted comparison is the color shows are equivalent to 225 watts.

How do I change the color options?

  • Changing between the color shows is as simple as powering down the light (using a switch) and turning it back on within 10 seconds.

Water Chemistry


 

Pool water chemistry along with proper filtration is the key to clean healthy water. It doesn’t matter if you have 100 or 1,000,000 gallons of water, the same balance levels and chemical types are required—only the quantity will vary. Everything that enters the body of water affects water balance: swimmers, rain, pollution, animals and chemicals.

 

Every pool, each season, creates its own demand for different chemicals. The pool in your neighbor’s yard, with the same system and environment may react totally different then your own. Every pool also develops a pattern each season. After observing how your pool reacts to different bather levels, rain, and the environment you will get a handle on your pools chemistry pattern and what’s required to keep the water balanced. The accepted levels for balanced pool or spa water are listed below.

 

Please visit an authorized Hayward dealer for more details on maintaining a chemically balanced pool or spa.

 

If you are using a chlorine generator, click here

 

 

 

Pool

 

Spa

Total Alkalinity

 

 

 

 

Plaster

 

80-120 ppm

 

80-120 ppm

Vinyl

 

100-150 ppm

 

100-150 ppm

PH

 

7.2-7.6

 

7.2-7.6

Bromine

 

2-4 ppm

 

3-5 ppm

Chlorine

 

 

 

 

Total

 

1.0-3.0 ppm

 

2.0-4.0 ppm

Free

 

1.0-3.0 ppm

 

2.0-4.0 ppm

Combined

 

< 0.2 ppm

 

< 0.2 ppm

Cyanuric Acid

 

30-100 ppm

 

30-100 ppm

Calcium Hardness

 

 

 

 

Plaster

 

200-400 ppm

 

200-400 ppm

Vinyl

 

175-300 ppm

 

175-300 ppm

TDS

 

< 2000 ppm

 

< 2000 ppm

Copper

 

< 0.3 ppm

 

< 0.1 ppm

Iron

 

< 0.3 ppm

 

< 0.1 ppm

           

 

 

* Table from LaMotte Company                                      

  • If the water is not properly maintained and the pH, Total Alkalinity and Calcium Hardness are allowed to fall below the recommended levels, the water will turn corrosive and can etch plaster, wrinkle vinyl liners, irritate the eyes & skin, AND corrode any metal components in the filtration system. The effects of this are most noticeable when a heater begins to leak. The corrosive water will eat at the copper in the heater’s heat exchanger. The copper will dissolve into the water and blond hair will start turning green and you may begin to see stains on the pool walls.

    If the levels are kept above the proper ranges, the water becomes scale forming. Scale will build up on the pool walls, the water will remain cloudy, eyes and skin irritation will develop and chlorine will not work as effectively.

    If you are in doubt as to how to maintain your pool or spa, contact a Hayward Authorized pool dealer.

     

What is the difference between a CL200 and a CL220?

  • The difference between the two units is how they are installed. The CL200 is installed in-line. This means that it is directly installed into the rigid PVC plumbing lines.  The CL220 is an off-line chlorinator and is attached to the PVC plumbing lines through the black tubing and saddle clamps included with the unit.  The output and types of chlorine dispensed are the same.
     

Where does the chlorinator get installed?

  • It is the last piece of equipment installed in the plumbing lines on the equipment pad. It is located just before the water returns to the pool.  This is done to keep the extremely corrosive chlorine water and gas from entering into the equipment.

What chemicals can I use in the chlorinator?

  • ONLY Trichloro-S-Triazinetrione (Tri-Chloro) based, slow dissolving stabilized tablets are to be used in the chlorinator.